Lawn Mowing Matters More Than You Think

Let’s be honest—mowing the lawn isn’t exactly on anyone’s list of favorite weekend activities.

❌ Sitting in the hot sun

❌ on uncomfortable mower seats (or worse, behind a push mower)

❌ Getting covered in grass clippings

But here’s the thing: that regular date with your mower is doing way more for your yard than just keeping the neighbors from giving you funny looks.

Think of mowing as your lawn’s regular haircut. Just like a good trim keeps your hair healthy, regular mowing helps your grass develop stronger roots, fight off weeds naturally, and stand up to whatever weather Southern Ontario throws at it (and we all know that can be… unpredictable).

Ever noticed how a freshly mowed lawn just looks different—more like a lush green carpet and less like an overgrown field? That’s because proper mowing encourages your grass to grow outward rather than just upward, creating that dense, carpet-like look everyone wants.

The truth is, how you mow matters just as much as how often. Throughout this guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about keeping your Southern Ontario lawn looking its best—from when to mow to how to create those envy-inducing stripes. Your lawn is about to become the talk of the neighborhood (in a good way, we promise).

1. Mowing Frequency: How Often Should You Mow?

The Golden Rule for Your Southern Ontario Lawn

“So how often should I drag the mower out of the garage?” For most Southern Ontario lawns, you’re looking at a date with your mower every 7-10 days during the growing season (late spring through early fall). This sweet spot gives your grass enough time to recover between cuts without turning your yard into a mini jungle.

But here’s a pro tip: watch your grass, not your calendar. Your lawn doesn’t care what day of the week it is—it grows when conditions are right, regardless of your schedule.

Rolling With the Seasons

Your lawn is like that friend who changes their personality with the seasons. You need to adapt your approach accordingly:

Spring (April-May) 🌻🌷🌹: Your grass is basically a toddler at this point—growing like crazy and demanding all your attention. During this growth spurt, you might need to mow every 5-7 days to keep up. Those spring rains combined with warming temperatures create perfect growing conditions, and your lawn is here for it.

Summer (June-August) ☀️😎⛱️: When the heat kicks in, your lawn pumps the brakes. During those hot, dry stretches (when you probably don’t want to be mowing anyways), you might only need to mow every 10-14 days. Cutting less frequently during drought conditions is actually doing your lawn a favor—it’s already stressed enough trying to survive the heat. Pro Tip: Did you know you can get a lawn mower with a cab and A/C? Check it out here…

Fall (September-November) 🎃🍂🥮: The cooler temperatures and fall rains trigger another growth spurt. You’ll likely return to the 7 day schedule early in the season, gradually extending to 10-14 days as winter approaches. Your final mow should happen when daytime temperatures consistently hover below 10°C—usually somewhere in mid-to-late November.

Forget the Calendar—Watch Your Grass

Instead of marking “mow lawn” on specific days in your calendar, use the “one-third rule” as your guide: never cut off more than one-third of your grass height in a single mowing. That might mean mowing more often when your grass is channeling its inner Jack’s beanstalk, and less frequently during slower growth periods.

For example, if you keep your lawn at a sophisticated 3 inches, it’s time to mow when it reaches about 4.5 inches. This approach is less stressful for your grass (and honestly, probably less stressful for you too).

Want more details on how often to mow? Dig deeper here → 

2. Grass Height: What’s the Best Height to Mow Your Lawn?

Finding Your Lawn’s Happy Place

What’s the ideal height for your grass? For our Southern Ontario cool-season grasses (fancy names like Kentucky bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, and fescues), you want to aim for the 2.5-3.5 inch sweet spot. This height range isn’t arbitrary—it’s actually your lawn’s comfort zone where:

• ✅Your grass develops deeper roots (think of it as lawn strength training)
• ✅The soil stays shaded, preventing weeds from getting the sunlight they need to germinate
• ✅Your lawn holds moisture longer, making it more drought-resistant
• ✅Your grass has enough leaf surface to photosynthesize, a fancy word that means solar-powered carbon eating that produces fresh air. ( I know right, your grass is cooler than you thought, and climate friendly)

When summer brings the heat (hello, humid Southern Ontario summers), consider raising your mowing height toward the upper end of this range—around 3-3.5 inches. The extra height provides more shade for your soil and roots, helping your lawn stay hydrated longer between waterings.

When Low Cuts Lead to High Problems

We’ve all been tempted to cut the grass super short so we can go longer between mowings (more weekend BBQ time, right?). Unfortunately, this “shortcuts” strategy usually backfires. When you mow below 2 inches, you’re essentially giving your lawn a buzz cut, which:

• ❌ Gives weeds a VIP pass to sunshine and space
• ❌ Reduces your grass’s ability to make its own food through photosynthesis
• ❌ Forces your lawn to focus on regrowing blades instead of developing strong roots
• ❌ Makes your lawn thirstier and more prone to drought stress
• ❌ Opens the door for pests and diseases to move in
• ❌ In a word, lots of bad stuff happens to your grass when you cut it too short

Over time, consistently mowing too short is like putting your lawn on a starvation diet—it gets weaker and in danger of everything from crabgrass to grub damage.

The One-Third Rule: Your Lawn’s Best Friend

Think of the one-third rule as the golden rule of mowing: never remove more than one-third of the total grass height in a single mowing session. This approach prevents shock to your grass and gives it time to recover without stress.

Here’s how it works in real life: If you maintain your lawn at 3 inches…

1. Let it grow to about 4.5 inches
2. Then mow to bring it back to 3 inches
3. Voilà—you’ve removed just one-third!

This might mean mowing more frequently during spring growth spurts, but your lawn will be healthier, greener, and more resilient as a result. Your neighbors might start asking for your secrets.

Curious about the perfect height for your specific grass type? Learn more here →

3. Best Time of Day to Mow

Early Evening: The Mowing Sweet Spot

Let’s talk timing. When should you actually fire up that mower? In Southern Ontario, early evening (between 4-7 PM) is your lawn’s happy hour. Here’s why:

• Your grass has had all day to dry off from the morning dew
• The scorching midday heat has mellowed out, reducing stress on freshly cut grass
• Your lawn gets a few hours of daylight to recover before nightfall
• You’re less likely to get a sunburn (lawn care shouldn’t require aloe vera)
• The moisture in your grass stays put instead of instantly evaporating

Can’t make the evening mowing window work with your schedule? Late morning (after the dew has dried) is your next best bet.

When Not to Mow (Unless You Like Problems)

Early Morning: 🌄🚫 Yes, it’s cooler, but that dewy grass is just asking for trouble:

• You’ll get uneven cuts and clumps that look like mini hay bales on your lawn
• Wet grass is basically a fungi party waiting to happen
• Your mower might leave ruts in the soft morning soil
• Your mower deck will clog faster than your kitchen sink at Thanksgiving

Midday (11 AM-3 PM): ☀️🚫 The heat of the day is tough on both you and your grass:

• Your freshly cut lawn will be fighting the heat while trying to recover from its haircut
• Cut blades lose moisture rapidly in direct sun
• You’ll be sweating buckets pushing that mower (not exactly fun)
• Intense sun on freshly cut grass can actually lead to burning

After Dark: 🌙🚫 Unless you’ve installed stadium lighting in your backyard:

• You can’t see what you’re mowing (goodbye, flower beds)
• Your neighbors might not appreciate your midnight mowing symphony
• Wet clippings left overnight can smother your grass and invite disease

Working your mowing schedule around these guidelines helps your lawn stay healthy while making the job easier on you, too.

Want to dive deeper into optimal mowing times? Check this out →

4. Mowing Equipment: Choosing the Right Tools

Finding Your Perfect Mower Match

What type of mower is right for your yard? Here’s how to find “the one” based on your lawn size:

Small Lawns (Under 1/4 acre):

• Electric Push Mower: These battery-powered beauties are gaining popularity fast. No gas, lower maintenance, and they’re quiet enough that you can mow without waking the baby (or annoying your neighbors).
• Gas Push Mower: The reliable classic. More muscle for tackling tougher conditions, and no battery life limitations when you’ve got a lot to mow.

Medium Lawns (1/4 to 1 acre):

• Self-Propelled Walk-Behind: These mowers basically walk themselves—you just steer. Your back will thank you.
• Small Riding Mower/Lawn Tractor: Now we’re talking comfort. Cutting widths of 30-42 inches mean fewer passes and more time enjoying your freshly cut lawn.
• Entry-Level Zero-Turn: These nimble machines let you cut circles around obstacles—literally. They reduce your mowing time significantly.

Large Lawns (Over 1 acre):

• Standard Zero-Turn Mower: The sports car of lawn mowers. Fast, maneuverable, and surprisingly fun to drive.
• Garden Tractor: Think of it as the Swiss Army knife of yard equipment—mowing, tilling, hauling, snow removal—it does it all.
• Compact Tractor with Mower Deck: For when your property is basically a small farm. These workhorses handle everything from mowing to moving heavy loads.

When Your Yard Has Personality (aka Hills)

Not all yards are flat as a pancake, and your equipment needs change when slopes enter the picture:

Flat, Even, Small Lawns: Zero-Turns or Push Mowers

• Lucky you! Almost any mower type works well
• Zero-turns will give you the fastest finish time

Hilly or Sloped Areas: Lawn Mowers or Garden Tractors

• Standard zero-turns get tippy on slopes exceeding 15 degrees (stick to flatter ground)
• Look for walk-behind mowers or lawn tractors with wider wheelbases for stability
• Models with improved traction features are worth every extra penny

Rough, Uneven Ground: Compact Tractors

• Bigger wheels and higher ground clearance are your friends here
• Suspended or floating mower decks prevent scalping those high spots
• Articulating mower decks that follow ground contours will save your sanity

Safety First (Because Hospital Visits Ruin Mowing Day)

When choosing equipment, always factor in safety features:

• ✅ Automatic shutoff when you leave the seat (in case you see a wasp and bail)
• ✅ Roll-over protection systems for hilly properties (because rolling like a log isn’t fun)
• ✅ Blade brake clutches that stop the blades but keep the engine running
• ✅ Easy-to-reach emergency shut-off mechanisms (just in case)

Remember, the right mower not only saves you time but also produces better results. It’s an investment in both your lawn and your weekend relaxation time.

Want to compare lawn mowers and compact tractors in detail? Check this out → 

Curious about compact tractors for your larger property? Learn more here → 

5. Mowing Patterns: How to Mow Your Lawn Like a Pro

Create Lawn Patterns That Will Make Neighbors Stop and Stare

Ever wonder how some lawns have those gorgeous stripe patterns like they were stolen from the Rogers Centre? It’s not just for show (though it does look amazing)—proper mowing patterns actually promote healthier grass and prevent soil compaction. Let’s up your mowing game:

Basic Patterns Everyone Can Master:

1. Straight Lines: The classic approach—just mow in parallel straight lines across your lawn.
   • Perfect pattern for beginners (no advanced degree required)
   • Creates a clean, timeless look
   • Easiest way to maintain consistent overlap between passes
2. Checkerboard: Channel your inner groundskeeper with this eye-catching pattern. Mow in straight lines in one direction, then make a second pass perpendicular to the first.
   • Creates that professional sports field look that impresses everyone
   • Works best if your mower has a roller or striping kit
   • Most dramatic on larger, open lawns where the pattern can be appreciated
3. Diagonal: Just like straight lines but mowed at a 45-degree angle to your property lines.
   • Creates the optical illusion of a bigger lawn (real estate agents love this trick)
   • Adds visual interest to square or rectangular yards
   • Perfect for breaking out of the same-old mowing routine
4. Concentric Patterns: Start from the outside edge and work your way inward (or vice versa).
   • Eliminates those awkward three-point turns at the end of each row
   • Ideal for circular or curved lawns
   • Minimizes starting and stopping, which is easier on your mower

Why You Should Change Direction (It’s Not Just About Looking Fancy)

Switching up your mowing pattern each time is like changing your workout routine—it prevents problems and improves results:

• ✅ Prevents ruts and soil compaction: Your mower wheels are heavier than you think—following the same tracks repeatedly creates compacted soil highways that water can’t penetrate.
• ✅ Encourages upright growth: Grass is a bit lazy—it tends to lean in the direction it’s mowed. Changing directions promotes straighter, healthier growth.
• ✅ Gives all sides of the grass equal sun exposure: Different blade orientations ensure more uniform sunlight, which means more even growth and color.
• ✅ Reduces “grain” development: When all grass blades lie in the same direction, you get “grain”—which affects both appearance and lawn health.

Try changing your mowing pattern by at least 45 degrees each time. Maybe go north-south one week, east-west the next, and diagonal the third week. Your lawn will thank you with more even growth.

How to Get Those Professional-Looking Stripes

The secret behind those fancy stripes isn’t complicated—it’s all about bending grass in alternate directions, which reflects light differently. Here’s how to get that country club look:

• Use a mower with a roller behind the cutting deck (or add an aftermarket striping kit)
• Focus on keeping your lines straight (a distant landmark can help you stay on track)
• Slight overlap between passes ensures no missed strips
• Higher cut heights (3-3.5 inches) create more dramatic stripes
• Keep those blades super sharp for cleaner cuts that bend more uniformly

With a little practice, you’ll create patterns that make your lawn look like it belongs in a magazine—and your neighbors might start asking for your landscaping secrets.

6. Grass Clippings: Mulch, Bag, or Side Discharge?

To Mulch or Not to Mulch? (Spoiler: Usually Mulch)

One of the most common questions: “Should I leave grass clippings on my lawn or bag them?” In most cases, you should absolutely leave them! Mulching (returning finely chopped clippings to the lawn) is like giving your grass a free lunch:

• Free fertilizer: Your clippings contain up to 25%-35% of the nitrogen your lawn needs—like recycling nutrients back where they belong
• Better moisture retention: Decomposing clippings help your soil hold water longer (crucial during those dry Southern Ontario summer weeks)
• Healthier soil biology: The organic matter feeds beneficial microorganisms that keep your soil healthy
• Less work for you: No stopping to empty collection bags means faster mowing
• Environmentally friendly: Keeps yard waste out of landfills

Today’s mulching mowers chop clippings into tiny pieces that quickly disappear between grass blades. Within a day or two, you won’t even know they’re there. This “grasscycling” approach creates a natural nutrient loop that benefits both your lawn and your wallet.

😎 Pro Tip: If you’re really into mulching, you’ll also want to dethatch your lawn too.

When Bagging Makes More Sense

While mulching is generally the way to go, certain situations call for collecting those clippings:

• When your grass looks more like a hayfield: If you’ve waited too long between mowings (no judgment—life gets busy!), bagging prevents smothering your lawn with heavy clipping deposits.
• During fungal disease outbreaks: Some lawn diseases can spread through infected clippings—bagging helps contain the problem.
• When weeds have gone to seed: Don’t distribute those weed seeds across your entire lawn—bag them up and dispose of them.
• Spring and fall cleanup time: Removing debris during seasonal transitions reduces thatch and disease pressure.
• Before the in-laws visit: When you need that absolutely pristine look for special occasions.

If you do collect clippings, consider starting a compost pile rather than sending them to the landfill. Mixed with brown materials (leaves, small twigs), grass clippings make excellent compost for your garden beds.

Side-Discharge: The Third Option

Side-discharge mode shoots clippings out from under the mower deck without the fine mulching or bagging:

• Works best for tall grass that would bog down a mulching mower
• Requires raking afterward to prevent clumping (or a second pass with the mower to chop up clumps)
• Great for rough areas that don’t need a manicured finish
• Not ideal for your front yard unless you plan to rake

Many modern mowers let you switch between these three modes with a simple lever or plate adjustment, giving you flexibility based on your lawn’s current condition.

Want to learn more about managing grass clippings effectively? Read our full guide here →

7. Mowing in Tough Conditions

Mowing Wet Grass

We’ve all been there—your lawn needs mowing, but Southern Ontario’s unpredictable weather has other plans. Can you mow wet grass? Ideally, you shouldn’t, but sometimes you have no choice. Here’s what you need to know:

Why It’s Better to Wait for Dry Conditions:

• Wet grass clumps like a bad haircut and clogs your mower deck
• The cuts are jagged rather than clean, leaving your grass vulnerable to disease
• Wet clippings can mat down and smother patches of your lawn
• Soft soil can get rutted by mower wheels
• Your mower engine works harder (and uses more fuel)
• It’s surprisingly slippery—especially on slopes

If Rain Has Ruined Your Mowing Plans But You Can’t Wait:

• Raise your cutting height by 1/2 inch to reduce strain
• Slow your pace to give the mower more time to process the wet grass
• Clean the deck frequently (with the mower OFF, of course)
• Take narrower passes (more overlap) to reduce the load
• Use side-discharge rather than trying to mulch wet clippings
• Consider a quick pass with a leaf blower afterward to break up clumps

The best approach is patience—even a few hours of sunshine and breeze can sufficiently dry your lawn for a much better mowing experience.

Mowing Hills Without Ending Up in a Viral Video

Slopes and hills present unique challenges—and safety concerns. How do you tackle them without turning your mowing session into an internet sensation?

For Walk-Behind Mowers:

• Always mow across slopes (horizontally), never up and down
• Self-propelled models reduce the chance of slipping
• Wear shoes with excellent traction (this is not the time for flip-flops)
• Take smaller passes and move deliberately
• Consider terracing very steep areas for easier maintenance

For Riding Equipment:

• Standard riding mowers handle gentle slopes (up to 10-15 degrees) safely
• Zero-turn mowers are less stable on hillsides than you might expect
• If your property looks like a ski hill, specialized slope mowers exist

Safety First (Because Gravity Never Takes a Day Off):

• Never mow wet slopes—unless you’re trying to start Olympic lawn mower skiing as a new pro sport.
• Keep all four wheels on the ground at all times
• Avoid turning while on slopes whenever possible
• Consider using a string trimmer for very steep spots
• If a slope feels unsafe, it probably is—no lawn is worth a trip to the ER

Some homeowners with particularly steep properties opt for alternative groundcovers or professional services for these challenging areas.

Need more tips on safely mowing wet grass? Find them here → 

8. Seeding and Sod: Mowing New Grass

Mowing After Overseeding: Patience is a Virtue

You’ve invested time and money overseeding your lawn—the last thing you want to do is damage those tender seedlings with premature mowing. When should you make that first cut?

Perfect Timing for Your First Mow:

• Wait until new grass reaches about 3.5 to 4.5 inches tall (about ½ to 1.5 inches taller than your target height)
• This typically takes 2-3 weeks after germination
• Different grass types mature at different rates—fescues and ryegrass establish faster than bluegrass

Baby Your New Grass With These First-Mow Tips:

• Choose a dry day when soil isn’t soggy
• Set your mower to the highest possible setting for the first cut
• Make sure your blades are razor-sharp for clean cuts
• Take gentle, wide turns to avoid uprooting tender seedlings
• Gradually lower the height over the next 2-3 mowings

For the first 4-6 weeks after overseeding, treat your lawn like a newborn—with extra care and gentleness. By that point, your new grass should be ready to join the regular mowing routine.

Mowing New Sod: Worth the Wait

You’ve invested in new sod—now you need to let it establish before mowing. How long should you wait?

The Right Time for the First Cut:

• Give it approximately 2-3 weeks after installation
• Do a quick root check by gently lifting a corner—you should see white roots growing into the soil below
• The sod should resist being pulled up easily

Make That First Mow Count:

• Water your new sod 1-2 days before mowing, then let it dry out
• Set your mower height high (3-3.5 inches)
• Sharp blades are absolutely essential
• Mow when the sod is dry but not drought-stressed
• Avoid sharp turns that could disturb or tear the sod’s connection to the soil

Remember that weather affects establishment time—sod installed in cool spring or fall weather may take a bit longer to root compared to summer installations.

Need a guide to mowing for your newly seeded lawn? Find it here → 

9. Mower Maintenance and Blade Care

Sharp Blades: The Secret Weapon for a Beautiful Lawn

How often should you sharpen those mower blades? This might be the most overlooked aspect of lawn care, but it makes a huge difference. Dull blades don’t cut your grass—they tear it, leaving jagged edges that:

• ❌ Lose more water (making your lawn thirstier)
• ❌ Create entry points for diseases and fungi
• ❌ Give your lawn that sickly brownish tint
• ❌ Force your grass to use extra energy for healing instead of growing

For Southern Ontario lawns, aim to sharpen your blades:

• ✅ Every 20-25 hours of mowing time
• ✅ About every 4-6 weeks during the growing season
• ✅ Immediately after hitting that hidden rock or root
• ✅ At the beginning and end of each mowing season

You can sharpen blades yourself with a bench grinder or file, or even a pumice stone. Many experienced homeowners keep a spare set of blades to swap out, allowing continuous use while one set is being sharpened.

Your Mower Deserves Some TLC Too

Regular maintenance doesn’t just extend your equipment’s life—it improves cutting performance and saves you money in the long run:

After Each Use (Just 5 Minutes of Effort):

• Brush off grass clippings from the deck and undercarriage
• Check for anything loose or damaged
• Check fuel and oil levels before storing

Monthly Maintenance (Your Mower’s Spa Day):

• Clean or replace the air filter (a clogged filter is like trying to breathe through a pillow)
• Check the spark plug—it should be clean and gap-adjusted
• Lubricate moving parts (check your manual for locations)
• Check tire pressure for even cutting
• Test all safety features—they’re there for a reason

Seasonal Maintenance (The Deep Clean):

• Change the oil in spring and fall
• Replace the spark plug annually
• Give everything a thorough cleaning
• Check belt tension and look for wear
• Inspect and grease bearings

Putting Your Mower to Bed for Winter

Before storing for the off-season:

• Run the fuel tank empty or add fuel stabilizer (old fuel is the #1 reason mowers won’t start in spring)
• Remove the battery from electric models
• Clean thoroughly—dried grass is surprisingly corrosive
• Apply a light coat of oil to metal deck parts to prevent rust
• Store in a dry, protected area
• Consider scheduling professional service during winter when shops aren’t busy

These maintenance habits not only extend your equipment’s life but ensure your lawn gets the cleanest possible cut each time.

10. Tackling Brush and Overgrowth

When Your Yard Goes Wild (Beyond Regular Mowing) 🌴

Sometimes you’re facing areas that have gone beyond the capabilities of your regular mower—maybe it’s that back corner you’ve been ignoring, or perhaps you’ve purchased property with overgrown areas. How do you tackle serious brush and overgrowth?

Tools for Taming the Wild:

• Brush Mowers: Like regular mowers on steroids, they can handle saplings up to 2-3 inches thick
• Flail Mowers: These chop and mulch material in a single pass—ideal for areas with heavy brambles
• Rotary Cutters (Bush Hogs): The heavy equipment option for large areas of thick vegetation
• Forestry Mulchers: For when you’re basically dealing with a young forest

Before You Charge In:

• Scout for hidden obstacles—rocks, stumps, and animal burrows can damage equipment
• Mark anything that can’t be removed with bright flags
• Create a clearing plan (working from edges inward usually works best)
• Consider wildlife that might be using the area as habitat (maybe relocate that rabbit family first)

Safety First (Because Brush Cutting Can Go Sideways Fast):

• Gear up properly—eye protection, sturdy footwear, long pants are must-haves
• Keep kids, pets, and curious neighbors far from the work area
• Be prepared for kickback when cutting thick material
• Always work across slopes, never up and down
• Take breaks—fatigue leads to accidents

For very large clearing projects or areas with trees larger than 3 inches in diameter, consider calling in the professionals. They have specialized equipment designed for efficient land clearing and can often complete in hours what might take you days.

Conclusion: Master Your Lawn With Smarter Mowing

Congratulations! You’re now armed with all the knowledge you need to transform your Southern Ontario lawn from “ugh” to “awesome” through smarter mowing practices.

Remember, effective lawn mowing isn’t just about cutting grass—it’s about creating the right conditions for your lawn to thrive. By implementing the proper timing, height adjustment, equipment selection, and maintenance we’ve covered, you’ll be well on your way to having that enviable yard that makes neighbors slow down as they drive by.

Your lawn is unique—with its own combination of grass varieties, soil conditions, drainage patterns, and microclimates. Pay attention to how it responds to different mowing practices and be willing to adjust your approach. The best lawn care combines technical know-how with attentive observation.

Think of your lawn as having its own language—it communicates through its appearance, growth patterns, and overall health. By “listening” to these signals and responding appropriately, you’ll develop an intuitive understanding of what your specific lawn needs to look its best.

Comprehensive resource list

Have questions about seasonal lawn care, specific problems, or specialized situations? Explore our detailed articles on specific topics. Your perfect lawn is absolutely achievable with the right knowledge and consistent care—and now you’ve got both!

Mowing Resources

What Height Should I Mow My Grass To? – Maple Lane Farm Service

You shouldn’t mow wet grass (Here’s why) – Maple Lane Farm Service

Compact Tractors vs Lawn Mowers: What’s the Difference? – Maple Lane Farm Service

How Often Should You Mow Your Lawn? [Southern Ontario] – Maple Lane Farm Service

Can I Use My Lawn Mower for Snow Removal? – Maple Lane Farm Service

How and When to Mow Your Lawn After Seeding – Maple Lane Farm Service

What’s the Best Time of Day to Mow? – Maple Lane Farm Service

What Should I Do with Grass Clippings? – Maple Lane Farm Service

Frequently Asked Questions

Basic Mowing Questions

Equipment and Maintenance

Seasonal and Special Situations

Lawn Health and Troubleshooting

Environmental and Practical Considerations